We’re camped in Cunnamulla, in Western Queensland. We pack a picnic lunch and head out of town (70kms or thereabouts) west to Eulo. As we leave town the paddocks are just a sea of red dirt. The road is very good but littered with the bones of ‘roos and there are a few wandering emus. On the journey we question why we are going so far to a place that we’ll pass through in a few days’ time. Then we arrive.

Eulo is your typical small Queensland town. Raised wooden buildings (to give airflow), a hall, a pub, a general store, an opal cutter and a mud bath. That’s right some people come out here to bathe in mud. And there are a few other things here that other towns don’t have. A lizard racecourse (affectionately known as the Lizard Lounge), a bore and a Diptrodon statue. They race lizards here and have been known to have up to 5000 spectators at a meeting, the bore supplies the town with artesian water at a constant 38 degrees and the Diptrodon? Well he’s an ancestor of wombats and koalas and he and a lot of other extinct creatures have been found around these parts.

But the most moving of all is the granite monument to the accidental demise of a racing cockroach called Destructo.

Too much excitement in one day can make one thirsty so we head for the Eulo Queen Hotel. And there we sit on the veranda with the publican’s missus and curse the passing traffic for not stopping for a drink, all three cars. Things move slowly in Eulo, especially the cockroaches.