The Flag Man

We’re coming down the Burke Developmental Road out of Normanton and on our way to Cloncurry. There is very little traffic and we feel like we are in the middle of nowhere. The names of the roads out here sound desolate ‘developmental’ this and developmental that. We come upon a distant road crew and are stopped by the flag man. The flag man tells us that the wait will be quite long about 15 mins or so. He explains what they are doing, putting a layer of cement dust onto the road, this will ensure that the road stays intact … Continue reading The Flag Man

Waltzing Matilda

To say that I’m emotional is an understatement. Just south of Kynuna we turn off the Landsborough (Matilda) Highway to pay homage to the Combo Waterhole. There is 8kms of good dirt road then a two and a half kilometre walk through paddocks of Mitchell grass and through billabongs. As we walk in we pass a bunch of old blokes (our age) with towels, they’ve just been in for a swim. This is part of the Diamantina River and the billabongs have been cleverly dammed with large stones to maintain water during the dry. The dams are called overshots and … Continue reading Waltzing Matilda

The Movable Towns of Queensland

In Western Qld in the old days towns would spring up at the rail head. As the railway line was extended some buildings would be dismantled and moved to the new town at the end of the line. Up in the Gulf both the Albion Hotel and the Purple Pub in Normanton were moved from Croydon, 150 kilometres away, when the gold mining ceased. In Ilfracombe, east of Longreach, the Wellshot Hotel has been moved from further down the railway line. Also in Ilfracombe there is a house that belonged to the Langenbaker family. Mr Langenbaker was a carrier so when work … Continue reading The Movable Towns of Queensland

The Gillies Range Road

The Gillies Range Road in Queensland drops sharply from the Atherton Tableland to Gordonvale near Cairns down on the coast. We had travelled this road several times and had wondered why there was a sign announcing Top gate and another Bottom Gate. It is an extremely steep and winding road and when descending it has stunning views for the passenger but hopefully not the driver. The story goes that in the old days there were 612 hairpin bends. The road would be opened for one way traffic going up for 90 minutes, then traffic would be reversed for 90 minutes. If … Continue reading The Gillies Range Road

We’re a Little Tight in Bowen

At Bowen we check into the tightest park we’ve ever stayed in. There are only centimetres to spare between each awning and the next van. Even though we have a drive through site (that’ll be $3 extra thanks) it takes quite a bit of juggling to squeeze in. Our neighbour pops in for a chat on our metre wide strip of grass and we are being bitten by midges. Tiny little black dots with a pin prick nip. “Oh” she says “they don’t really bite they just piss under your skin. Then in a few days all this liquid comes out … Continue reading We’re a Little Tight in Bowen

Mulgildie Pub

Coming down the Burnett Highway in Queensland, we discuss our craving for a pub roast and the fact that we haven’t seen a pub advertising cheap meals in a long time. Lo and behold at the next town the Mulgildie Pub has a board out for $10 roasts. We can’t get inside quick enough. The old wooden pub is painted bright green with quirky drawings everywhere. Inside it is a feast of art and craft for sale. The ladies loo has ducks painted on the seat and the men’s loo is a little scarier with barbed wire. We sit on … Continue reading Mulgildie Pub

QNP

We’re travelling through Queensland in convoy with friends. Moura is a purpose built coal mining town, neat, tidy and quite spread out. As we leave town we pass the Queensland Nitrogen Plant. Being city slickers and wondering what this large plant is and what QNP stands for, we get to chatting over the UHF radio with our friends. Suddenly a voice comes on the air and explains. “It’s Nitro.”  We’ve all drawn a blank and asked “what’s Nitro?” “Fuckin’ fertiliser mate.” Says the voice. These UHF radios are really handy. Continue reading QNP

Cheaper Than Bricks

In the Queensland town of Barcaldine there is a corrugated iron Masonic Temple that has a weatherboard front. The boards are cleverly painted in a geometric pattern to resemble bricks. It is so good that you have to touch it to see which is actually the edge of the board and which is an illusion. They were certainly resourceful in these parts. Mind you I’ll bet I gave the locals a laugh standing there in the hot sun rubbing my hands over the front of their building. Continue reading Cheaper Than Bricks

Oh, There’s Nothing in Blackall

We have stopped in Barcaldine, Qld and chat to a couple who tell us that we should stay the night in ‘Barky’ as there is little to see in Blackall apart from the wool scour and that the free camp would be too wet from all the rain. But we had been intrigued by the humorous brochure for Blackall so we turn south. Through 100kms of gidgee (or Gidyea) scrub to Blackall and what a charming little town it is. There are avenues of bottle trees and lots of green grass. We set up at the free camp on the … Continue reading Oh, There’s Nothing in Blackall

The Royal Hotel, Bouldercombe

We haven’t tried pub camping so just shy of Rockhampton in Qld we turn off towards Mount Morgan and 15 minutes later we are in the little town of Bouldercombe. We pull up outside the Royal Hotel and Tracey the publican bounds down the beer garden steps to meet us. Yes, we can park out the back on the wide mowed paddock along with the other campers. “A beer in the bar would be appreciated, thanks and there are $10 meals”. What a lovely spot, it is sunny, warm and dry and peaceful. The other campers are a chatty bunch … Continue reading The Royal Hotel, Bouldercombe