In Mudgee, NSW and hankering for a steak we walk this charming town and find the Red Heifer Grill at the Lawson Park Hotel where the specialty is steak of course. It is a freezing cold winter’s night, we’re talking scarves and woollens now, and there’s a roaring fire in the bar. Out the back are some of the largest steaks that you’d ever find and the house red is a smooth local drop called ‘Black’ Shiraz. Steaks sizzle on the grill, ours almost melt in our mouths and the shiraz? We buy a dozen the next day.