We stop at Causeway Lake near Yeppoon in Queensland and I chat to fishermen who are working the ebb tide. They show me how to use a bait pump and they are sucking Nippers out of the mud. Nippers look like a white yabbie half the size of your little finger but with one giant pink claw as long as their body. Soldier crabs skitter across the sand nervously even though no one is interested in them. The water from the lake gushes out to sea at a fair speed and the fish are biting. Those nippers must taste damned good.

At dusk we buy a wood fired garlic prawn and anchovy pizza from the lady in the van at nearby Mulambin beach and eat it beside Causeway Lake as the sky turns orange. The little fish and chip shop is jumping and campers are having happy hour on the lake shore, all is right with the world here and so it should be.

Causeway Lake, Qld