Day 52

Monday 27th April 2015

Kalbarri to Denham, Shark Bay

We left most of the windows open last night and it is wonderful to wake up to the sight of puffy pink clouds. Murchison House Station is staffed by a retired caravanner couple, he’s a Mr. Fixit and backpackers who work hard for their keep and take home a life time of memories (doesn’t that take me back?). Other staff members tend not to stay because they can either earn $120k in the mines or they have drug problems.

We roll back up the long red dirt road to the highway and head north once more and into ‘The Gascoyne’ region.

We pull into the Billabong Roadhouse for fuel and I’m taken aback. They’re selling healthy food and the toilets are spotless! A bloke tries to walk in with a cockie on his shoulder and is smartly refused entry for health reasons. What happened to the good old days when a roadhouse smelt of dirty cooking oil, all of the food was fried, the toilets were vile and one had to wipe ones feet on the way out! 

Now getting back to those flies….we’re weaving left and right across the road because Woody likes to swat them on the windscreen with his fist as he drives. The driver’s field of vision is covered with little flecks of fly. Apart from swatting we open the sun roof each time we get back in the car and eventually, with a lot of waving, they get sucked out. 

We turn left at the Overlander Roadhouse and enter the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. It is hot, 33 degrees and it is a long drive, over 100kms, to the top end of the park where all the action is. 

We find Eagle Bluff camp site after more than one U turn and for those who are interested it is not at the lookout but down the unmarked road, then down a narrow track to your left just before the lagoon. It is a good camping spot but we are instantly blitzed by flies, which is probably why there is no one else here.

Denham is a small fishing town and as we drive along the esplanade an emu strolls by. The town is home to fishermen and holidaymakers abound. Most premises are paved with shell grit, there are few lawns or gardens, just stark white grit. The water is reputed to be more salty than normal and it is so clear that you can see lots of fish, large fish from the jetties. The jetties are black with squid ink so they must be plentiful too. Dolphins, dugongs and turtles are said to be here in great numbers.

The Denham Seaside Village Top Tourist Park is paved white with shell grit and built on four levels according to van size. We are on level three with a wide view of the bay. In fact the whole place is like an Aussie version of a Greek island and with all of the stark white against the blue water and ever present smell of salt it is totally relaxing.

Accom: $40.50

Travelling Kms: 369Kms