Victoria’s Western District is set on an ancient volcanic plain, so old that the volcanoes are now mere pimples on the landscape. Amongst those ‘pimples’ there are many lakes and solid townships built from basalt blocks. The same basalt that was used to form the city streets of Melbourne and can still be seen to this day. To the south of the plains is the ‘tail’ of the Great Dividing Range, the cool climate rain forest of the Otway Ranges and then finally the Grampians / Gariwerd National Park. The coast of course is known as the Shipwreck Coast for the hundreds of lives lost here on the final leg of their journeys to a new life. At least 638 ships are known to have been lost along here and ‘Explorer Matthew Flinders said of the Shipwreck Coast, “I have seldom seen a more fearful section of coastline.”’ (Source Wikipedia).

Port Fairy. It can be a blessing when a town is a just a little off the highway and Port Fairy is one of those often missed and well-preserved time capsules. From its beginnings as a sealer’s outpost to a working port for arriving immigrants (some of mine included) this town has so much to explore. Solid old stone inns and cottages, a river, the Moyne, filled with fishing boats both old and new and tall Norfolk Pines. When you’ve had your fill of colonial history step back further in time to nearby Tower Hill. This volcanic caldera was captured on canvas in 1855 by Eugene Von Guerard. Through subsequent years the indigenous residents were banished and the land cleared for agriculture. In more recent times a volunteer local community has used Von Guerard’s masterpiece as a guide to revegetate Tower Hill and bring it back to its former beauty. The Gardens Caravan Park is an easy walk from the heart of Port Fairy.

Portland. Ok, you’re probably thinking aluminium smelters and shipping, but this is a rollicking town with a thriving arts community and a salty past. From the NRMA Portland Bay Caravan Park with its resident koalas you can watch the port in operation. Bauxite is landed here and conveyed over the hill to the smelter to be processed into aluminium ingots. Wood chips are trucked in from the regions’ many plantations. There’s a gannet colony, wait for it, just below the rifle range. If you’re into religious history, Australia’s first and only saint Mary MacKillop once taught here at what is now Bayview College. Mac’s impressive 3 storey hotel has an historic dining room that was once used as a makeshift hospital for survivors of the shipwreck Admella. And their parmies? Well they’re to die for. The Portland Cable Tramway has a stop outside the caravan park making touring this town much easier on the feet. The pier is very long, the beaches crystal clear, with soft white sand and there is a delightful Botanic Garden. Out of town there is the towering Cape Nelson lighthouse complex. And a short drive along the coast the sleepy surfing hamlet of Cape Bridgewater. Take the self-guided art and history walking tours to immerse yourself in this wonderful town and build up your strength with patisserie delights from Sourdough behind Percy St.

Port Campbell This tiny town lives for tourism. Busloads of international tourists come here for the splendour of the Great Ocean Road and the coastline. The 12 Apostles* of which there are no longer 12 and London Bridge* that really did fall down. But it’s the raw power of the ocean here that is the true star. One wonders how any of those sailing ships ever managed to thread their way along this coast safely. Port Campbell is one of those places for long bracing seaside walks and writing novels in cosy cottages. The pub’s good too. Not forgetting the well-appointed and relaxingly located NRMA Port Campbell Holiday Park, think beach and creek.

• The 12 Apostles have been slowly sliding into the sea and the first arch of London Bridge dropped away in 1990 leaving two stranded tourists needing rescue by helicopter.

Apollo Bay since visiting as a child I can never get enough of the natural setting of this town. The steep rolling hills and the perfect arc of the bay mixed with the salty tang of the busy fishing boat harbour. The iconic cypresses are giving in to age but ignore the commercialism and enjoy the beauty. On a headland west of town is Marengo Family Caravan Park, a nice spot to stay away from the hustle and bustle with plenty of coastal walks.

Johanna Beach Awesome. We’ve never overnighted here, but we have called in many times. Johanna is a place that catches your breath with its stark beauty and feeling of remoteness. National Park camping is available behind the dunes.